Behind Maison Kayser is Éric Kayser. This great-grandson of a baker, who likes to define himself as an alchemist of baking, is as jovial and approachable as he is passionate. He has become an emblematic figure in the world of artisanal baking, largely because he places a high value on combining tradition and innovation. From Paris to Tokyo, through Singapore and New York, Eric Kayser’s loaves, baguettes, pastries, and other confections are ambassadors of French craftsmanship.

Continuing its development, especially on the African continent, Maison Kayser has chosen to set up in Rabat. After Dakar, Abidjan, and Lagos, it’s here in Morocco—where bread-making is also an art—that we met Eric Kayser. He welcomed us into Maison, his new bakery,pastry shop, and café. Open from 7AM to midnight, with its Parisian elegance, it’s  the ideal stop for a gourmet breakfast, a bistronomic meal, or simply to buy good sourdough bread, buttery croissants, or tarts.

Passionate and fascinating, the master artisan himself took the time to explain how to recognize quality bread. That means its aromas (a bread can contain over 200), its crispy crust, and its soft crumb. He also shared about his journey and what drives him.

Maison Kayser consists of  several generations of bakers. How is the knowledge passed on?

Indeed, the adventure began with my great-great-grandfather, so five generations ago. Unfortunately, my parents quit the profession when I was 7 years old. Still, I kept those memories, those smells of apple tarts, and especially the pleasure I had spending hours in the family bakery. So naturally, I turned to baking as soon as I could.

I became a Compagnon Du Devoir and toured France with an association that brings together men and women to pass on their skills to younger generations throughout France. Then I became a trainer. While my roots are in eastern France, I also lived in the south, but I chose to start working in Paris. For me, it was a real challenge. Paris, with its gastronomic reputation, is clearly one of the world capitals where culinary professions have a special place.

So, we understand that you are an artisan baker. But you are also an author and inventor?

In 1994, I indeed contributed to the invention of a machine: the Fermentolevain. We marketed this equipment at a professional food show even before opening our first store. Our idea was simple: to make the baker’s job easier. Bakers lived, slept, and worked according to the rhythm of their sourdough fermentation, a living and fragile substance. It was very time-consuming and frankly restrictive. So, we sought a solution, and that’s how we invented a machine to manage fermentation time.

Well, actually, we managed to make it do even more! It mixes and beats the sourdough every 30 minutes, heats and cools it, all to develop a culture of liquid wild yeast, renewed continuously. The process starts with a mix of one kilo of flour and one liter of water, left to ferment for four hours. To this, two more kilos and liters are added, and so on.

Eventually, we obtain a yeast culture that exists within the machine’s environment and naturally raises the sourdough. Each day, the same miracle happens! The result: entirely natural yeast is used to make bread on an industrial scale!

Regarding writing, I have published about fifteen books. While some didn’t do well, others were quite successful. For instance, Larousse du Pain, published in 2013, sold nearly a million copies. It’s a great joy for me to see the success of this book because I love my profession and especially enjoy passing on my passion!

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And today, where can we find you—airports or laboratories?

Realistically,  I think I spend about 30% of my time there. I just returned from ten days of training in the USA, where I spent almost 15 hours a day in labs doing training and demonstrations.

And for creation, do you find time?

I contribute to all the creations—fortunately, not alone, of course! But I try to give my opinion on everything we produce. My favorite fields of creation are viennoiserie and bread, naturally! I am convinced that for a company to succeed, it must be surrounded by competent people in each field and orchestrate everything for the magic to happen. My main goal is to train people to always strive to do better than me.

Maison Kayser
Store 53, Mahaj Ryad Center, Rabat
Phone: 05 37 71 61 61
Monday to Sunday from 7 AM to 11 PM