A city in the southeast of France, Arles is full of charm, art, and history, where the stones have almost as many beautiful stories to tell as the inhabitants. Located at the foot of the Alpilles and at the entrance to the Camargue, this town, with its Roman and Romanesque monuments, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. If the famous Lettres de mon moulin, written by Alphonse Daudet in the late 19th century, taught us that an “Arlésienne” is a person you wait for but who never arrives, I can guarantee you that Arles will leave you with only one desire: to return. And you’ll want to return with all your friends, with whom you’ve shared your desire to discover Arles and the region.

What we love to do there:

Strolling around and getting pleasantly lost in the maze of small streets within the old city’s walls. Taking the time to admire the buildings and monuments from a sunny terrace while sipping a Perrier or a local glass of rosé.

Entering the sublime Saint-Trophime Cathedral, one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in France, famous for its Aubusson tapestries. Visiting the arenas and imagining life in 8 AD, swooning over the biceps of the gladiators fighting there. Considering taking the “Van Gogh” tour organized by the Tourist Office—a very cool way to experience the city through the steps of the famous painter who found so much inspiration in Arles.

Visiting Luma, the contemporary art foundation inaugurated in 2021, and strolling through the museum’s aisles. Sometimes being amazed and other times, quite (very) perplexed by so many puzzling works. Finally, browsing local product shops and returning with suitcases full of Camargue rice, flavored fleur de sel, lavender sachets, and other sweets.

My must-sees:

Inari

Probably one of the best restaurants in town. Certainly the most popular. One of those places you might think is trendy but, in reality, is so well-established and authentic. The media attention is not just a passing fad.

Nestled in a chapel dating back to 1224 on Place Voltaire, Inari is the first restaurant where the talented chef Céline Pham set up her kitchen after delighting us with numerous pop-up events.

And it creates a truly delightful location, embodied by the chef who has put all her heart and convictions into it. The menus change with the seasons, according to the market. The dishes evolve, but the chef’s precision and her sharp sense of balance remain unchanged.

A restaurant where every flavor is respected and enhanced. A place where every dish is well thought out. To our delight.

Sauvage

The name is definitely a contradiction for  the coziest place in town. A temple of delicacies. A magnificent bakery where everything is handmade. The bread is kneaded by hand and baked long enough to have the taste of happiness.

You’ll find all the regional treats like orange blossom navettes, the famous Provencal pompe in a delicate lavender version, and many sourdough loaves.

In short, plenty of good things, perfect for breakfast or a snack at any time! I suggest you even take some to go—they travel surprisingly well.

Moustique

An essential location  in town. A shop that’s a bit like a curiosity cabinet where good taste seems to be a guiding principle. Here, every object seems to have a story to tell. It’s the perfect shop to buy—especially for yourself—original and local gifts. A big favorite for decorative accessories and stationery.

Le Méjan Cinema and Actes Sud Bookstore

One of my favorite cinemas ever! Firstly, it’s attached to the beautiful Actes Sud bookstore. One of my favorite bookstores, because Actes Sud is the best publishing house in the world! What? Am I not being objective? So what!

More seriously, Actes Sud is a publishing house that has managed to maintain its unique brand: a spirit of discovery and sharing.

And its cinema is a reflection of this. Small theaters but with a very fine, demanding, and eclectic program. There’s always an interesting film playing. And if you’re late, all is not lost. Take a stroll around the bookstore. Dozens of fascinating books and just as many invitations to travel await you.

Les Carrières des lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence

A few kilometers from Arles is the village of Les Baux-de-Provence, perched on the rock, offering breathtaking views. Often voted “most beautiful village in France,” it’s one of those exceptional places to visit at least once in your life.

There, you’ll find the Carrières des Lumières. Monumental white stone quarries rising 14 meters high, they host exceptional immersive exhibitions. Clearly a must-see in the region. This season features an exhibition on Orientalists, particularly around the travel diaries of Delacroix. It’s very tempting!

The CILA

The Leila Alaoui Intercultural Center is a space dedicated to art and culture, in homage to the work and spirit of Leila Alaoui, the photographer who tragically passed away in January 2016, killed in an attack in Ouagadougou. CILA is not just a cultural center. It’s a place of meetings, exchanges: luminous, open, generous, and profound. Just like Leila was.

Where to stay

L’Arlatan

Simply a little gem! This former medieval mansion, one of the most beautiful in the city, was transformed by the brilliant Cuban artist Jorge Pardo. A colorful and vibrant decor with a monumental mosaic stretching over 6,000 m². Amid this explosion of colors is a haven of peace: a patio and a pool where it’s a pleasure to relax.

L’Arlatan
20 Rue du Sauvage, Arles
Tel: +33 4 90 52 52 52
Price: from 1200 DH per night

Le Nord Pinus

The city’s iconic hotel has evolved over time without losing the soul so dear to Jean Cocteau. Picasso, Piaf, and Montand were regulars. Fernandel drank pastis there. And it’s easy to see why. The heart of the city seems to beat here.

With a bohemian-chic decor full of charm, the place pulls off the daring feat of being both retro and trendy — just as I love it!  Special mention for the wine bar with its wood paneling where you can easily lose yourself, remaking the world with new friends at the next table.

Le Nord Pinus
14 Place du Forum, Arles
Tel: +33 4 65 88 40 40
Price: from 1200 DH per night

Hôtel & Spa Jules César Arles – MGallery

Very well located with an excellent price-quality ratio and a spotless Cinq Mondes spa, the Jules César is a boutique hotel with a solid reputation. International standards and impeccable service. What more could you ask for? Not much, except perhaps even a little more of its abundant soul and charm…

Hôtel & Spa Jules César Arles – MGallery
9 Boulevard des Lices, Arles
Tel: +33 4 90 52 52 52
Price: from 1800 DH per night