Niche perfumery, which emerged in the 1980s, is more popular than ever. Aimed at connoisseurs, these avant-garde fragrances seek to create the unexpected by daring to use surprising blends.  They cater to a smaller audience, looking for scents that can’t be found just anywhere. And it works! Proof of this is the total number of niche perfume launches, which reached a peak of 1563 in 2023, an increase of 16% compared to 2022, according to perfume expert Michael Edwards.

Among the still little-known  houses competing with industry giants, Memo Paris stands out for the quality of its unisex creations, as well as the worlds it creates.  Each perfume evokes poetry and storytelling that awakens a desire to travel. . This is reflected not only in the visual design of the perfume, created by an illustrator, but also by being displayed in treasure chests  at various points of sale.

Memo as Memory

Behind Memo Paris are Clara Molloy, a Catalan poet, and her husband John Molloy, an Irish entrepreneur. Passionate about travel, they decided in 2007 to launch their own perfume house to transcribe their memories into olfactory creations. They surrounded themselves with renowned perfumers such as Marypierre Julien, Juliette Karagueuzoglou, and Gaël Montero.

Their process  begins with the choice of a destination and a guideline, written in the form of a poem. This is how the founder shares the emotions felt during her journey. The perfumer then has total freedom to express their creativity and craft unique compositions. They also have carte blanche in the choice and quality of ingredients.

Although the brand now has three collections (Fleurs Bohèmes, Graines Vagabondes, Cuirs Nomades), it is known for being one of the pioneers in using  leather scents in its fragrance compositions. The Cuirs Nomades collection is one of Memo Paris’s best-sellers.

Niche perfumes, an art form!

In addition to the original compositions of its fragrances, which provide a multitude of emotions, Memo Paris stands out for the very intimate worlds it creates.  Art holds a significant place in the hearts of the founders. For each creation, an artist is invited to give their own vision of the perfume through a drawing. The illustrated bottles of these niche perfumes allow one to immerse themselves further into the ambiance of the chosen destination. Note that each fragrance has its own dedicated book to further populate its world. 

Dreamlike, the Parisian house is also socially engaged.  Throughout the year, it participates in various international fairs to present the works of the artists with whom it collaborates.

Escape to the Lands of India 

This season, we’re falling for Madurai, one of Memo Paris’s latest unisex products from the Fleurs Bohèmes collection. Legend has it that this sacred city in southern India was born after a drop of divine nectar fell from the hair of Shiva, one of the most important gods in Hinduism. From this journey, Clara Molloy remembers the thousand colors of the Mînâkshî temple, the scents of jasmine, turmeric, and the colorful market stalls. The result is a sunny composition by Gaël Montero, a perfumer friend of the house (he designed the  Cappadocia perfume).

Madurai opens with the zesty and aromatic freshness of lemon, bergamot, clary sage, and peach essences. There is also a hint of turmeric in the top notes, adding a spicy touch. The heart becomes more floral with jasmine sambac, tuberose absolute, and tagetes essence, also known as small-flowered marigold. In the base notes, sandalwood essence and a suede blend (which recreates the animal and woody scent secreted by musk deer) bring creamy and voluptuous aromas to the fragrance. The bottle is inspired by the hypnotic patterns found on the ceiling of the Mînâkshî temple.

As you can see, Madurai is one of those colorful, highly nuanced niche perfumes that inevitably makes us want to escape. To continue this Indian escapade, we recommend another one of our favorites from the house, Indian Leather. This perfume blends a heart of cypriol (a plant with a woody and spicy scent), oud essence, and a leather blend. 

And if your heart desires, journey  to Turkey with Cappadocia, the latest creation from Memo Paris, where saffron is magnified by a soft floral bouquet, creamy woods, and resins.

Price: 2770 DH for a 75 ml bottle.
Available at Esthécare.

Picture (c): Memo Paris

While the perfume market continues to thrive, it’s unisex or gender-neutral fragrances that are on the rise today. This evolution can be attributed, first and foremost, to changing mindsets. The fashion industry serves as a perfect example. Gender boundaries are blurring, and it’s evident on runways everywhere. It was only a matter of time before this trend made its way into the world of perfumery. This is now true to such an extent that  unisex perfume today is synonymous with elegance and sophistication.

To cater to a broader audience, the fragrances are typically crafted around notes that appeal to both women and men. Ingredients like bergamot, vetiver, musk, or patchouli are neutrally and harmoniously blended. Some creators also opt to work with a single scent, enhancing it with other more subtle ingredients. Oud, for example, offers endless possibilities for perfumers.

However, there is one olfactory creation that has consistently resisted the pull of gender: Eau de Cologne. Since its creation in the 1700s, it has always been unisex. Reinterpreting cologne in a modern, unisex context makes perfect sense. This is precisely the challenge that the niche brand Juliette Has a Gun has taken on with Ego Stratis. Renowned for its somewhat provocative approach to perfumery, it surprises us once again with this recent creation. It certainly piques our curiosity.

The Origins of Unisex Perfume

Although the unisex fragrance trend has gained popularity in recent years, it is not a new concept. In the Middle Ages and during the Renaissance, men and women shared makeup, hair powder, musks, floral, and aromatic scents. For example, Louis XIV favored orange blossom, while the Queen of Hungary had a preference for rosemary. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that the concept of gender entered perfumery. Of course, the objective was purely commercial. Woody scents were generally marketed towards men, while women were encouraged to opt for floral and fruity fragrances. However, the masculine or feminine perception of certain notes varies from one culture to another. In the East, for instance, both men and women appreciate rose and oud.

It was only 1880s that creators began to break free from gender norms. But mindsets are persistent, and the divide between masculine and feminine fragrances continued for a long time. It wasn’t until 1995 that the unisex fragrance trend was officially launched.

Affirming One’s Personality

Wearing a unisex perfume is a way to stand out and reflect one’s personality today. Unisex fragrances are more often intended for a clientele of connoisseurs. This is evident in niche perfumery, synonymous with “high perfumery,” which generally transcends the concept of gender. According to perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, “wearing a unisex perfume is like a man wearing a pink tie. It’s a matter of taste and confidence.”

This is a sentiment that the brand Juliette Has a Gun fully embraces. We recently introduced you to the story of this perfume house. Founded in 2006 by Romano Ricci, the great-grandson of Nina Ricci, Juliette Has a Gun breaks the mold. For more than 15 years, this niche brand has defied industry conventions to offer high-end, uncomplicated, and spontaneous perfumes, with the goal of empowering women.

Ego Stratis, Our Current Favorite Unisex Perfume

Until now, Juliette Has a Gun’s creations were exclusively for women and were designed as different facets of a strong personality (feminine, authoritative, seductive…). Today, the brand is writing a new chapter in its history with Ego Stratis. This unisex eau de parfum reinvents the traditional cologne. To achieve this, its composition relies on notes that appeal to both men and women.

Like a classic cologne, the opening is very fresh and sparkling with bergamot, lemon, and mandarin essences. The wave of freshness continues with the sea breeze if calone, a marine note, neroli essence, and blueberry. Finally, ambroxan, cedar essence, and musks give the fragrance a seductive and comforting depth. A characterful scent, perfect for the autumn season, and one you can easily share with your significant other…or not!

Ego Stratis Eau de Parfum, 1,426 DH for a 100 ml bottle.
Exclusively available at Beauty Success or onbeautysuccess.co.

Picture (c) : Behance