The magical refresh. You know the look: a smooth forehead that’s not frozen, a tightened jawline, cheekbones that are neither too plump nor too deflated—all without any visible traces of surgery. That’s what everyone is after. But many fall into the trap of excessive cosmetic procedures, ending up with overly tight faces, altered eye shapes, and disproportionate features. Who’s to blame? Likely a mix of impatient patients chasing youth and heavy-handed practitioners. And with an ever-growing industry, the temptation is strong. Let’s stay positive—some procedures, surgical or not, are incredibly well-executed. Dr. M, an expert in reconstructive surgery, explains the why, the how, and most importantly, the dos and do-nots.

An exponential demand and pseudo-experts 

The field of plastic surgery has been experiencing steady growth for years. In 2023 alone, the total number of surgical and non-surgical procedures increased by 3.4%, reaching 34.9 million, according to the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS). That’s a 40% surge over the past four years. The most in-demand procedures? Liposuction, breast augmentation, eyelid surgery, along with Botox and hyaluronic acid injections.

Social media has largely fueled this popularity by normalizing these treatments. But the open access to information has also made patients more knowledgeable. “Thanks to the abundance of before-and-after images, people are more informed. They’ve become more critical and can distinguish well-executed procedures from botched ones. This pushes the profession to modernize techniques for more natural-looking, subtle results,” says Dr. M, a plastic surgeon specializing in facial procedures. Today’s goal? Less drastic, more harmonious transformations. Because according to experts, overly visible or unbalanced results often signal poorly executed work.

The telltale signs of surgery

 “A well-done plastic surgery procedure should be undetectable,” Dr. M states. But there are some red flags. A face that appears overly tight and expressionless is often the result of an outdated facelift technique that only tightens the skin. “Facelift techniques have improved significantly in recent years. With the deep plane facelift (which we covered in detail in a previous article—editor’s note), we reposition the deeper structures of the face,” he explains. Other common signs of a poorly performed facelift include hairlines that have been pulled back too far, earlobes stretched downward, visible scars, or a neck that hasn’t been properly tightened.

When it comes to eyelid surgery, known as blepharoplasty, older techniques involved cutting the skin and muscles to remove fat pockets, often resulting in a rounded eye shape. Today, the procedure is performed from the inside of the eyelids to maintain their natural contour. “For a long time, traditional blepharoplasty was about removal—taking away skin and fat. Now, we understand aging-related volume loss and muscle weakening much better. Instead of just removing tissue, we add volume with fat grafting and tighten the muscles, making the eyes appear larger, more open, and less tired,” Dr. M explains.

As for rhinoplasty, an unnatural-looking nose is often a telltale sign of poor plastic surgery. “A well-done nose job should blend seamlessly with the face, without looking operated on,” says Dr. M. “This applies to all procedures—whether it’s the breasts, abdomen, or buttocks. It’s always about balance. The moment you disrupt natural proportions, it becomes obvious.”

What about injections? 

While injections aren’t permanent, they can also reveal poorly executed work. The most commonly used products are hyaluronic acid and Botox. “Modern hyaluronic acids are excellent products and are well tolerated in most cases—provided they’re used in the right dosage. Too much volume can distort facial proportions,” warns Dr. M. Many patients keep topping up their injections to maintain the same look, forgetting that hyaluronic acid doesn’t fully dissolve. Depending on the person, it can linger for 12, 18, or even 24 months. “Some areas break down faster than others. Under-eye fillers last longer, while temples lose volume more quickly. That’s why it’s important to avoid over-treating the same areas repeatedly. Always ask yourself if it’s truly necessary before getting another injection, and opt for small amounts,” he advises. The good news? Hyaluronic acid has an antidote—hyaluronidase, which can dissolve excess filler.

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On the other hand, Botox completely wears off within four to six months, making it safe to repeat treatments multiple times a year. However, an overzealous doctor can freeze the forehead and eyes, creating an unnatural look. “One common sign of poorly injected Botox is the ‘Mephisto effect,’ where the outer eyebrows arch unnaturally high. This happens when only the center of the forehead is treated, allowing the brow tails to lift. If this occurs, a small additional Botox injection can balance it out,” explains Dr. M. Unlike hyaluronic acid, Botox has no antidote—if you don’t like the results, you’ll just have to wait it out.

The shift towards a more natural look

By now, it’s clear that aesthetic enhancements can be subtle and natural-looking. In fact, some people who have gone overboard with plastic surgery are now reversing the effects. Demi Moore and Lindsay Lohan are prime examples. Both recently appeared looking noticeably younger. So, what’s their secret? “Demi Moore had overdone hyaluronic acid injections, resulting in overly inflated cheekbones. She likely used hyaluronidase to dissolve the excess filler and then had a very well-executed facelift,” analyzes Dr. M.

Lindsay Lohan, on the other hand, appeared with overly plumped lips, heavy eyelids, and a somewhat bloated face. “From what I can see, she probably also used hyaluronidase to dissolve excess hyaluronic acid. To rejuvenate her look, she has clearly undergone a blepharoplasty. This is a high-quality cosmetic surgery procedure because it has truly enhanced and rejuvenated her appearance without altering her expression,” explains Dr. M. “Some people also speculate that she had a facelift, but in my opinion, that seems unlikely. Lindsay Lohan is still young—she’s only 38—and she has naturally well-defined facial features. It seems more likely that she has lost a significant amount of weight, possibly with the help of the well-known GLP-1 agonists (Ozempic, Mounjaro, Wegovy, etc.). Finally, in older photos, the actress had visible skin texture issues, with dilated pores and minor vascular spots, resembling rosacea. Today, her complexion appears much more even, and her skin texture seems refined. This suggests that she has undergone deep skin cleansing treatments using modern technologies and lasers to achieve a more uniform look,” he adds.

It indeed appears that combining facial treatments, aesthetic medicine, and cosmetic surgery is becoming increasingly common to achieve better results. “The aesthetic toolbox is much more extensive than it was a few years ago. Surgery has advanced, but we now also have devices that tighten tissues, thread lifts, a variety of injectables such as exosomes, mesotherapy, lasers, and more. While surgery primarily targets deeper layers, it’s also essential to treat the skin’s surface,” explains the expert. It is therefore the physician’s role to offer patients comprehensive, tailored treatment plans.

Treatments for every age

While cosmetic surgery may seem like a miraculous way to achieve a youthful appearance quickly, preparatory treatments and a healthy lifestyle are necessary to improve skin quality and enhance results. “I often see patients in their 50s or 60s who have barely done anything and suddenly want a facelift as a miracle solution. But they need to do other things first. They should start by balancing their hormones because menopause affects skin quality, maintain a healthy weight, focus on proper nutrition and sleep, quit smoking, and take care of their skin with deep treatments. When all these steps are followed in the right order and finished with a facelift, the rejuvenation effect is much more harmonious and natural,” concludes Dr. M. Before taking the leap into cosmetic surgery, it is crucial to research different techniques, be certain of your decision, and seek multiple professional opinions.

*Our source wished to remain anonymous.

Picture (c) : Vogue 

Long reserved for women, surgery and aesthetic medicine are increasingly opening up to male clients. The numbers speak for themselves. In 2022, no less than 14.9 million surgical procedures and 18.8 million non-surgical procedures were performed worldwide. An increase of 41.3% over the past four years, to say the least. While 85.7% of the total number of these procedures were performed on women, procedures dedicated to men increased by 18% (figures taken from the latest report by ISAPS, International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery). As you can see, men are becoming less reluctant to undergo surgery.

However, their requests differ from those of women. Indeed, men are generally hesitant when it comes to aggressive treatments that require long recovery times. The result should be natural with minimal downtime, allowing for a quick return to social life. While the demand for aesthetic surgery for men varies according to their needs, facial injections top the list. But there is also eyelid surgery, hair transplants, and body sculpting.

Injections: soon to become a regular thing

The most common aesthetic operation for men is undoubtedly facial rejuvenation through botulinum toxin injections. These are so popular that this phenomenon even has a name: “Brotox” (a contraction of “brother” and “Botox”). More and more men are filming themselves during botulinum toxin injection sessions or showing before-and-after previews. The trend is such that the #brotox hashtag has over 17 million views on TikTok. In the United States, men represent 6% of patients among all procedures, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. In 2020, there were already 265,000 men undergoing this procedure in the country, an increase of 182% since 2000.

It should be noted that injections are among the fastest and easiest procedures to perform. To recall, botulinum toxin relaxes muscles. Just like for women, a few injections on the forehead, between the eyebrows, and at the crow’s feet can open up one’s features and give a fresh look to the face for several months. Of course, the goal is not to have a permanent effect but to enjoy an immediate “youthful touch.”

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Blepharoplasty or the new fresh look

To address sagging eyelids that obscure our bright eyes, or the bags under them, blepharoplasty is the trending aesthetic procedure for men. Although widespread, this eyelid surgery requires a lot of precision. So be sure to consult a surgeon experienced in this method. As a reminder, Dr. Marsili explained everything you need to know about this operation in our recent interview. We’ll leave it to you to take a look.

Body sculpting

For the second consecutive year, liposuction was the most commonly performed surgical procedure in 2022, with more than 2.3 million procedures worldwide. While women are the main customers, men are also showing interest. Body sculpting is indeed a constantly evolving demand. However, the goal and technique differ by gender. Cellulite does not affect the same areas in men as it does in women. In men, it tends to concentrate on the upper body (shoulders, abdomen, arms, and hips). Their skin is also thicker, which limits water retention and the appearance of cellulite.

However, andropause (a decrease in testosterone levels) related to age reduces the ability to eliminate fat. Liposuction can help men achieve a more uniform body by removing fat from the abdomen and love handles. Some also opt for high-definition liposuction, which aims to help define the abdominal muscles. Fat can also accumulate in the chest, which can quickly become embarrassing for a man. This is referred to as gynecomastia, which means an excessive development of male breast tissue. Requests for surgical breast reduction for men are becoming more and more common worldwide, as explained by Dr. Campiglio, editor-in-chief of the ISAPS global survey.

Getting your game back

We conclude with the most requested aesthetic procedure for men, which is none other than hair transplantation. Unfortunately, 70% of men suffer from androgenetic alopecia. As a reminder, we talked about it in a previous article on hair loss. In simple terms, androgenetic alopecia is a hereditary problem caused by dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a male hormone derived from testosterone. This hormone acts on hair follicles by accelerating hair growth, which over time results in shorter hair that falls out faster and eventually thins to the point of not growing at all.

Among the solutions to address this, there is mesotherapy (injections of a mixture of vitamins into the scalp), phototherapy (treatment with LED and infrared lights), or the PRP procedure that involves injecting one’s plasma. The goal is to stimulate hair growth. However, in more advanced cases, only hair implants can deliver noticeable results.