It is the star active ingredient of new anti-wrinkle treatments. Bakuchiol claims to work in the same way as retinol on skin aging, but without being irritating. But is it as effective? Who is it meant for? Let’s take stock with a dermatologist.
Introduced for the first time in cosmetics in 2007 under the brand name Sytenol A, bakuchiol has quickly become a trendy ingredient. This natural active substance, extracted from a medicinal plant, offers numerous benefits. It provides anti-aging, antioxidant, and anti-blemish effects, all without side effects. This makes it a strong competitor to retinol, which is currently the go-to in anti-wrinkle treatments.
As a reminder, retinol is a form of retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A. In the same family, we find tretinoin, which we discussed recently. All these active ingredients are known for their potency and effectiveness, but they can also be very irritating. They are not suitable for everyone. This is where bakuchiol shines. Very gentle, it is better tolerated by sensitive skin. Does this mean it could replace retinol? Not so fast… Yasmine Slimani, a dermatologist in Casablanca, has more to say.
What is Bakuchiol?
Originating from India and Sri Lanka, bakuchiol is an active substance extracted from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, whose Sanskrit name is “bakuchi.” Used for hundreds of years in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, bakuchiol has only recently been incorporated into cosmetics. Completely natural, it is sometimes referred to as “phyto-retinol” or “green retinol.” And for good reason, as it acts in the same way as the latter. “Bakuchiol not only offers the same benefits as retinol, but it also acts similarly on the cell’s DNA,” explains Yasmine Slimani.
Like retinol, bakuchiol is mainly used for its anti-aging benefits. By stimulating collagen synthesis and cellular turnover, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines while improving skin elasticity and firmness. But this natural active ingredient is also antioxidant (it helps the skin neutralize free radicals), anti-blemish (it purifies acne-prone skin and prevents the appearance of blackheads), and anti-spot (it blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for hyperpigmentation).
Is it really effective?
“It’s a bit of a jack-of-all-trades,” admits the dermatologist. “However, there are always more effective options. Its effects are minimal compared to other active ingredients. Therefore, it’s not something I would recommend as a priority unless someone can’t tolerate anything else. In that case, it has potential,” she adds. This is indeed its main advantage: bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive ones. “Retinol is irritating, so we can’t prescribe it to everyone. If someone suffers from rosacea, for instance, we wouldn’t even consider it. This is when we start looking for alternatives like niacinamide, bakuchiol, etc.,” the professional clarifies.
Yasmine Slimani also wants to alert us to the lack of research on this topic. “There are hardly any well-founded studies on bakuchiol that prove its efficacy and safety. Therefore, I prefer not to prescribe it to a pregnant or breastfeeding woman, for example.”
Read also : SOS DAMAGED HAIR 5 NEW TREATMENTS TO TRY
How to use It?
So it is clear: bakuchiol is not the miracle anti-aging solution. Other, more potent active ingredients are more effective. In addition to retinol, we also think of vitamin C, which offers better antioxidant effects. However, this natural ingredient has potential for those who want to use gentle anti-wrinkle treatments. One can opt for a serum or a moisturizing cream to incorporate into their daily routine.
“Like retinol, the effects of bakuchiol will only be visible after several weeks of use. It must be used in the long term,” explains Dr. Slimani. Another advantage of bakuchiol is that it is not photosensitizing. Therefore, it can be applied in the morning or evening. “Some people prescribe it twice a day, but I prefer not to,” specifies the dermatologist.
The fact that bakuchiol is not irritating also allows it to be combined with other active ingredients. Unlike retinol, it will not cause any interaction issues. “If you want to treat an oily skin problem, you can use it with salicylic acid and niacinamide. To add some glow, you can combine it with glycolic acid or anything AHA. Finally, there are many anti-wrinkle treatments that combine bakuchiol with retinol, where the latter is less concentrated to reduce its irritating effects,” explains Yasmine Slimani.
In Morocco, bakuchiol is not yet very well known, but there are some products, such as the concentrated serum from Aroma Zone, the sheet mask from Some By Mi, or the Probio-Cica eye cream from Madagascar Centella. In Europe, there are several anti-wrinkle and anti-blemish treatments enriched with bakuchiol. You can find them at Sephora, Paula’s Choice, Dr.Jart+, Typology, The Inkey List, as well as in Korean cosmetics.
