The Moroccan caftan dazzled in Doha! As part of the Qatar-Morocco 2024 cultural year, and in the presence of Princess Lalla Hasnaa and Sheikha Al Mayassa Bint Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani, Chairperson of Years of Culture, the Caftan Fashion Show showcased exclusive collections by ten of Morocco’s most illustrious designers. Shoelifer was there and brings you all the details, including the highlights of the collections!
On Wednesday, December 4, Dar Al Maghrib, a 1,300-square-meter Moroccan pavilion inspired by the kasbah of Aït Benhaddou and built on the esplanade of the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, hosted a magnificent Moroccan caftan fashion show. Ten collections, each featuring ten pieces, lit up the stage, which was inspired by the Berber symbol Yaz. An audience of 250 high-profile Moroccan and Qatari personalities marveled at the creations of Amina Benmoussa, Myriam Bouafi, Frédérique Birkemeyer, Fouzia Naciri, Houda Serbouti, Albert Oiknine, Yasmina Benyahya, Najlae Diouri, Sara Chraïbi, and Zineb Joundy.
The show was enhanced by performances from traditional Moroccan troupes—Gnaoua, Guedra, and Haddarates from Tetouan—highlighting Moroccan craftsmanship and lifestyle. A video fresco acted as a luminous thread weaving through the kingdom’s landscapes. Another standout moment was Douzi’s performance of his hits Ana Maghrabi and Layoun Aynia.
As promised, it was a stunning showcase, and you can catch a glimpse of it here.
Now, let’s dive into the details of the collections for Moroccan caftan enthusiasts.
Heritage by Amina Benmoussa for Miya Couture
A tribute to Morocco’s cultural heritage, Amina Benmoussa’s collection revisits traditions from various regions of Morocco. Founded in 1996 in Casablanca, Miya Couture delivers a contemporary take on Moroccan craftsmanship with vibrant brocades, shimmering silks, and lace. Techniques such as Terz Ntaâ, Zwak Maâlem, and Terz Rbati are prominently featured. The collection, in shades of black, gold, and green, celebrates a woman rooted in her traditions while also embracing modernity —making for a truly dazzling figure.
Imperial Majesty by Myriam Bouafi
Inspired by Marrakech, the quintessential imperial city, Myriam Bouafi’s collection draws from the opulence of its palaces, ornaments, and lively cosmopolitan feel.
The designer, who first pursued law studies before training in the craft of the Moroccan caftan, pays tribute to her country’s cultural heritage. Her creations blend traditional embroideries like Terz Ntaâ and Zwak Mâalem with contemporary motifs—often geometric—on flamboyant brocades, lush prints, and monochromatic silks. It’s a collection of great majesty, enhanced by a color palette that is both joyful and radiant. It features shades of red, lime green, lilac, maroon,, and rust-red – all emblematic of the ochre city.
Starry Night in Fez by Frédérique Birkemeyer
This collection by Frédérique Birkemeyer evokes a graceful stroll under a starry night in the secret gardens of the riads in the imperial city. Deeply devoted to the Moroccan caftan, the Marrakchi designer pays a vibrant tribute to this traditional garment, showcasing the art of Fez-style embroidery. The colors are bold: red, green, black, and blue. Her exploration of silhouettes—including the caftan, gandoura, and badiya—is both contemporary and elegant. The pieces shine with a unique brilliance, adorned with inlays of gemstones, jade, and crystals.
Al Maghrib by Fouzia Naciri
Inspired by the Setting Sun, Al Maghrib in Arabic, serves as the inspiration for Fouzia Naciri’s collection. Founder of the couture house Atelier Fouzia Naciri in 2011, she presents a stellar interpretation that begins with a palette of yellow and gold silks, blazing into shades of red and coral before softening into lavender and midnight blue tones. In her creations, Fouzia Naciri explores various Moroccan embroidery techniques such as Zwak Maâlem and Randa. She also brings her personal touch to the Moroccan caftan through innovative cuts, including her signature Thoraya caftan with ultra-flared sleeves, a hallmark of her designs for the past five years. It’s truly a display of majesty and character.
Bucolic Romance by Houda Serbouti
Since her debut in 2012, glamour and romance have defined Houda Serbouti’s work. Staying true to this essence, the designer has crafted a collection that feels like a poetic stroll—an ode to a romance that is both sophisticated and full of character. Houda Serbouti’s caftans, made of silk crepe with tailored cuts, are exquisitely adorned with floral embroidery. This collection is dedicated to blossoming young women, transitioning from the freshness of pastel shades to the boldness of more assertive tones like Majorelle blue and the fiery ochre of Moroccan soil. A timelessly delightful elegance.
Desert Breeze by Albert Oiknine
Albert Oiknine’s collection is a luminous breeze over the sandy plains. The shimmering lamés evoke flashes of light, while his nude-toned caftans symbolize the desert sands. His cream-colored ensembles, on the other hand, reflect the moonlight over the vast desert expanse. For 25 years, in his Casablanca atelier, Albert Oiknine has blended lace, pearls, sequins, and airy fabrics to present his deeply personal reinterpretation of the Moroccan caftan. Once again, his contemporary cuts—featuring cape-embellished gandouras, badiya gowns with layered skirts, and caftans with reimagined collars—create a tableau of softness and dreamlike elegance.
Flamboyance by Yasmina Benyahya
A tribute to the craftsmanship of artisans, Yasmina Benyahya’s collection delves into the codes of grand Moroccan celebrations. Drawing from the classic wedding colors of Moroccan tradition—gold, burgundy, and green—the young designer, trained at the Instituto Marangoni in Paris and in her mother’s workshop, Houria Création, incorporates her favorite celestial hue: blue. The collection explores various embroidery techniques, such as Bride and Zwak Maâlem in gold and silver thread, as well as the application of sequins. A wardrobe that is both opulent in its embellishments, contemporary in its techniques, and deeply rooted in the tradition of the Moroccan caftan.
Mediterranean Dream by Najlae Diouri
The collection by Najlae Diouri, founder of the Najlae brand based in Casablanca and Dubai, reflects her journey and heritage, serving as an ode to the hues of the Mediterranean and the emblematic northern Moroccan cities of Tangier and Tetouan. Inspired by the color palette of rooftops and Andalusian-Arabic architecture, the designer translates this vision into refined and elegant creations. Her caftans, predominantly crafted in cool tones such as sky blue, indigo, and pale yellow paired with olive green, are adorned with traditional Moroccan embroidery. The cuts, strongly influenced by caftans from the 1970s and early 1980s, are modernized with the addition of jumpsuits and capes. It is a feminine, minimalist, and modern collection that remains deeply respectful of the standards of traditional Moroccan attire.
Andalusian Garden by Maison Sara Chraibi
Sara Chraibi’s collection tells the story of a gentle stroll through an Andalusian Eden, both earthly and celestial, where the shadows of arcades meet the brilliance of sacred fruits. On her caftans, capes, and badiya, the founder of Maison Sara Chraibi in Rabat—now an invited member of the official Haute Couture calendar in Paris—unveils architectural motifs and botanical embroideries. On ethereal silks, the designer brings to life foliage and sacred fruits such as pomegranates and grapes, in hues of gold, ivory, blue, and aquamarine. A wardrobe where sophistication and the complexity of craftsmanship unite in a divinely harmonious blend.
The Initiatory Journeys of Zineb Joundy
From her extensive journey tracing the Silk Road, Zineb Joundy paints a portrait of rare character, finesse, and sophistication. A pioneering and bold fashion designer, she honed her craft alongside Karl Lagerfeld and at Lanvin before opening her atelier in Casablanca in the early 1990s. She draws inspiration from the embroidery and patterns of Morocco’s diverse regions, as well as Mughal, Persian, and Andalusian designs, which she elevates by creating a vibrant dialogue between cultures and influences. Her caftans, richly adorned with motifs ranging from understated to intricate sequined designs, are enhanced by majestic capes that reflect her boundless creativity. It is a testament to her passion for travel and a symbol of her avant-garde, yet traditional, couture.
About Years of Culture
“Years Of Culture,” chaired by Sheikha Al Mayassa Bint Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani, is an initiative launched in 2012 to promote cultural exchanges and diversity between Qatar and other nations. The Morocco-Qatar Year of Culture 2024 began in February 2024 and concluded on December 17. However, several exhibitions remain open, such as the Dar Al Maghrib pavilion and the “Splendors of the Atlas: A Voyage through Morocco’s Heritage” exhibition at the Museum of Islamic Art, which runs until March 8, 2025.
Picture © : Courtesy of Years of Culture
