Accustomed to runway shows, photoshoots, and red carpets, Ilham Mestour, the star hairstylist of Moroccan descent, is a true phenom in her field. More than that, she is a genuine artist who transforms each hairstyle into a work of art. In fact, several of her creations are currently displayed at “MODA Moroccan Fashion Statements” in Utrecht. We had the pleasure of meeting her.
As you may know, at Shoelifer, we love inspiring success stories, especially those of Moroccans who thrive abroad. Naturally, we wanted to learn more about the star hairstylist Ilham Mestour. Her name may not sound familiar, but her journey speaks for itself. Currently the Artistic Director of Balmain Hair Couture, the 50-year-old Moroccan has worked on major fashion shows around the world. She has styled hair backstage for Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Burberry, Givenchy, Fendi, Rick Owens, and many more.
Known for her creative flair and voluminous hairstyles, Ilham Mestour is frequently asked to style celebrities on the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, V Magazine, and more. She is also nominated in the “Woman of the Year 2024” category by Harper’s Bazaar. Her loyal clients include Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Doutzen Kroes, Imaan Hammam, and even Queen Máxima of the Netherlands. In fact, the star hairstylist has been based in the Netherlands for many years, but it was in Casablanca, her hometown, where her passion for hairstyling began. As a child, she loved spending hours in beauty salons during the wedding season. Watching women transform and gain confidence once they were done-up sparked her calling.
Although Ilham left Morocco as a teenager, she remains deeply connected to her country of origin and seizes every opportunity to highlight her heritage. Her installation at the “MODA” exhibition is inspired by traditional Moroccan hairstyles. She has also worked for the past four years with the Fashion Trust Arabia awards, overseeing all hair styling. At the end of this month, she will be in Marrakech for the 6th edition. Finally, Ilham organizes annual workshops aimed at the next generation of hairstylists, allowing them, too, to become true stars in the field. A distinguished career indeed!
You grew up between Casablanca and the Netherlands, is that right?
Exactly. My parents already lived in the Netherlands, but my mother decided to give birth in Morocco, which is why I was born in Casablanca. We then returned to Holland when I was just an infant. After that, we would visit Morocco every year. Then, at the age of 8, I didn’t want to go back. What was supposed to be a three-week trip turned into six years. I stayed with my grandparents and went to school here. I only saw my parents two or three times a year, but I loved being there.
I was lucky to experience a wonderful childhood in Morocco. However, at 15, my parents thought it would be best if I returned to Holland to continue my studies and plan my future. They hoped I would become a lawyer or a doctor, but I was passionate about hairstyling. To my mother, being a hairstylist was a career for people who didn’t know what else to do with their lives. So, I fought to show her that a future in this field was possible and that she could be proud of me.
What inspired you to become a hairstylist?
The power of transformation has always fascinated me. When I was young, I loved brushing and drying my aunts’ hair. I watched them change in appearance but also gain confidence. Hair can empower, dignify, and make someone feel beautiful. That’s where my passion started. Knowing that you can give someone that sense of assurance immediately attracted me.
After moving to the Netherlands, I wanted to follow this path, despite my family’s reluctance. I knew deep down that hairstyling was my calling. So, I started with a four-year training program, then worked alongside industry professionals to continue progressing. I sought every opportunity to showcase my talent, until I became a star hairstylist.
You have participated in numerous fashion shows, created many magazine covers, styled top celebrities, and are currently the Artistic Director of Balmain Hair Couture. How did you get there?
I would say it’s a mix of hard work, resilience, and passion. I had the privilege of working with some of the biggest names in fashion and hairstyling for countless magazine covers. But beyond that, becoming Artistic Director of Balmain Hair Couture was a defining moment for me. It’s the result of many years of dedication and honing my skills. I’ve always sought to learn and grow.
In general, I believe you have to create your own opportunities. Nothing falls into your lap. For example, during my very first runway show in Paris, I was surprised to learn that I couldn’t touch the models’ hair. I was only allowed to hand hairpins and hairspray to the senior hairstylists. But as soon as one of them stepped away, I took the opportunity to create a bun on a model. My work was praised, and I was allowed to style other models.
Who or what do you owe your success to?
I owe much of my success to my family, who, despite their doubts, have always been my biggest supporters. My grandfather’s work ethic and the joy he found in what he did also influenced me deeply. And, of course, the incredible mentors I had along the way. Whether they were hairstylists or fashion designers, all contributed greatly to my success. But I also owe this success to myself, to my determination, and my refusal to give up when things got tough. Success isn’t just about talent; it’s about persistence and the willingness to keep going, even when the path is unclear.
Were there obstacles along the way?
Absolutely, there were many. Moving from Morocco to the Netherlands was a challenge in itself. I had to leave behind the life and family I knew. Pursuing a career in hairstyling was also difficult. But each obstacle only made me more determined to succeed. I remember working long hours, juggling multiple jobs to pay for my courses, and constantly feeling the pressure to prove myself, especially to my parents. I knew I was following my heart, and that gave me the strength to overcome everything in my way.
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Any decisive encounters?
One of the most decisive encounters in my career was with Luigi Murenu, a true master in the world of hairstyling. Working under him for nearly a decade was transformative. He didn’t just teach me technical skills; he taught me to see hair as a form of art, to understand its movement, texture, and how it can be used to tell a story. He was a true mentor who helped evolve my hairstyling into something much more creative and expressive.
Your style leans more toward art than traditional hairstyling. Where does this inspiration come from?
I find inspiration everywhere, but my heritage plays a significant role in my creativity. Moroccan culture, with its deep traditions and complex art, inspires me to push the boundaries of what hair can be. I don’t just see hair as something to style but as a means of creating art. My work often focuses on blending traditional techniques with modern, avant-garde concepts. It’s about creating something that moves people, like any other art form.
You recently created a hair installation for the Moroccan exhibition “MODA” currently held in Utrecht. Is transitioning to an artistic career the next logical step for you?
Yes, I think transitioning to a more artistic expression of hairstyling feels natural. The “MODA” exhibition at Utrecht’s Centraal Museum is a perfect example of how I merge the past with the present. The installation I created is an ode to my heritage and the traditional Moroccan hairstyles that have inspired me throughout my career. For me, it’s no longer just about creating beautiful looks for models or shows but telling a story through hair and sharing my culture with the world.
Have your Moroccan origins been an asset in your career? How do they influence your work?
Absolutely. My Moroccan roots are at the core of who I am and how I approach my work. The traditions, the importance of beauty, the strong bond with my family and heritage—all of it has influenced me deeply. When I style hair, whether it’s for a show or a personal client, I’m always inspired by the intricate and artistic hairstyles that are part of Moroccan culture. My background has given me a unique perspective in the fashion world, and I’m proud to bring this influence into my work.
What are your plans for the future?
The future is very exciting! I’m working on several projects that blend fashion and art, and I’m expanding my work to more creative expressions of hairstyling. I’m also focused on my academy, where I want to pass on everything I’ve learned to the next generation of star hairstylists. I don’t run this school year-round. Once a year, I offer a three-month training program to stylists who want to advance in the fashion industry. I share all my knowledge and passion with them.
At the end of the program, they have the chance to join my team and work with me as hairstylists backstage in Paris. When I started in the fashion industry, it was really challenging. I didn’t have anyone to guide me or tell me how things worked; I had to figure it all out on my own. Through my program, I guide young talent and give them the opportunity to pursue their passion and achieve their dreams. It’s about passing the torch, helping them grow, and making their path easier by sharing all my knowledge.
What advice would you give to young people who want to make a living from their passion?
My advice is simple: follow your heart and never give up. More importantly, believe in yourself and your vision. If you’re passionate about something, stay committed to it and work hard to get there. And don’t let anyone tell you that your dreams are impossible. Success doesn’t happen overnight; it requires dedication, resilience, and a constant desire to learn.Photo (c) : Tara Levy
Picture (c) : Tara Levy
